S.M. King embarks on a quest to find good Mexican food.

On this day, and in the public forum, I make a barefaced declaration: I am a fool for Mexican.

Declare this preference to many Australians, and they’ll look at you like you’ve just nominated MC Hammer as your favourite star or voted for the Coalition.

Nutritious and perfectly balanced, true Mexican is not unlike great Thai food in its complexity. But, unless you’ve tasted the authentic version, you’re likely to think of this regional fare as it is generally served in Australia.

Which, to put it kindly, is Kit-e-Kat with cheese served in soggy wheat.

The search for decent Mexican in Melbourne is much like the search for the Holy Grail. Promising leads turn to dead ends. I’d like to be your Hand of God here and help you on your quest.

Most places serve Tex Mex. This Americanised take on Mexico’s flavours and ingredients is not all bad. It might not have the zest and panache of the original but it can be pleasant.

The industrial zone of Moorabbin is an unlikely spot to find decent Tex Mex, but nonetheless, Mexico Lindo serves a very respectable take on this hybridised cuisine.

The carne asada, a grilled meat dish at Taco Loco in Ormond is a flavourful diversion if you happen to be in the area.

Closer to town, St. Kilda’s Bluecorn does a great burrito. The meat is well seasoned and the addition of roasted corn is a flourish that really works.
Los Amates Mexican Kitchen stands apart with a menu which leans more heavily toward Mexico than Texas. Tacos with chorizo and potato and tamales, a kind of Central American dumpling, are a refreshing departure from the usual nacho mush. The place also has an excellent tequila selection.

If you truly want the real deal, go to Mexico. If you want to have some fun experimenting with flavours at home, go to Aztec Mexican Food Imports in Tullamarine. This emporium of chillies, tortillas and beans supplies most of the Mexican restaurants in town, and is open to the public.

Stock up on chipotle peppers, dried ancho chillies, and masa flour for tortillas. This Mexican flat bread is a cinch to make and sensational when freshly pressed. Aztec usually has inexpensive tortilla presses in stock, as does Casa Iberica in Fitzroy.

To make beans from scratch, look out for dried pinto beans in health food outlets and Asian and Middle Eastern stores. They don’t require too much soaking and are a Tex Mex essential.

While there are plenty of pre-packaged spice mixes available at the supermarket, these are overly salty and full of additives. A judicious home mix is ground cumin, coriander and cayenne. This base is ideal to build other flavours like chipotle upon.

Be warned, though. Once acquired, the obsession can only develop. You’ll be buying MC Hammer’s pants before long so you can sneak ingredients across the Mexican border.

Los Amates Mexican Kitchen: 34 Johnston Street, Fitzroy Ph: 9417 0441

Mexico Lindo: 157 Chesterville Rd, Moorabbin Ph: 9555 6339

Blue Corn: 205 Barkly St, St Kilda Ph: 9534 5996

Taco Loco: 570 North Rd, Ormond Ph: 9578 7595 

Aztec Mexican Food Importers: 8A Adina Court, Tullamarine Ph: 9330 1733

Casa Iberica: 25 Johnston Street, Fitzroy Ph: 9419 4420