Towering red gums; the mighty Murray; brawny, sun-kissed farm boys built like shearing sheds. Everything is big in Rutherglen, including the wines.

Fans of fortifieds are likely familiar with this big, big region. Its Muscats and Ports are of international repute. We can thank an exceptional climate for the bounty.

Rutherglen has the same number of sunshine hours as the Gold Coast. And, mercifully, fewer drunk teenagers in hotpants and lewd t-shirts. Sunshine and temperate weather allows many grape varieties to develop full and complex flavours. Muscat and Tokay grapes achieve high levels of sweetness and spice. Reds such as Shiraz and the lesser known Durif develop the kind of firm natural tannin structures that lovers of big reds crave.

Durif is one of the area’s quiet stars. The vine is now virtually nonexistent in France, and almost exclusive to North East Victoria. Its lack of popularity may be due to the patience required to enjoy it. Drink this wine young and you’ll most likely find it overpowering and brash. Cellar it for 10 to 20 years and you’ll think tears from Bacchus himself have fallen into your glass.

A great Durif stand ups extremely well against a bold Shiraz in the noble tannin stakes. Deeply coloured, firm and flavourful with a long finish, Durif is a big, big wine that wants to be shared with a perfectly cooked steak or ably prepared game. Freshly killed, perhaps, by a brawny, sun-kissed farm boy built just like a shearing shed…

Durif isn’t the only stranger in town. The entire region lends itself to the production of other less well known grape varietals like Marsanne, Viognier, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo, and Touriga.

Many of the winemaking houses of the Rutherglen region sprang up in the gold rush days of the mid-19th century, and are still owned and run by the fourth, fifth and even sixth generations of the original owners. The connections to the region’s heritage are strong.

At All Saints Estate they still use old, open fermenters and a basket press from 1873. Set in a 120 year old castle, All Saints Estate Cellar Door is a somewhat magical place for a spot of wine tasting. The onsite Provender-style cheese tasting room serves up a range of gourmet cheeses, antipasto and local produce. A slow graze on fine foodstuffs just serves to make good wine even better.

Visitors to the Rutherglen Wine Experience and Visitor Information Centre can hire bikes and pick up maps to explore five cycle routes; a unique way to visit the area’s wineries. If you enjoy fortifieds, the Wine Centre also marks the start of the Muscat Trail, a tour around the great Muscat houses of Rutherglen.

Autumn is a great time to visit this hot and dry region of the state, and if you pick your weekend well, you can shop like a champion.

The second Sunday of every month welcomes the Rutherglen Farmers Market. More than twenty regional producers vend an extensive range of fresh local produce. Fruit and vegetables, olive oils and olives, Rutherglen lamb, North East venison, local honeys, free range eggs, cheeses, relishes and pickles inspire a spontaneous picnic on the Murray with a big red. Pack a tent or stay in town.

Rutherglen, like its beloved Durif, deserves time.