 The Rutherglen region
is one of the state’s best wine districts, writes S.M. King.
Towering red gums; the mighty Murray; brawny, sun-kissed farm boys built
like shearing sheds. Everything is big in Rutherglen, including the wines.
Fans of fortifieds are likely familiar with this big, big
region. Its Muscats and Ports are of international repute. We can thank an
exceptional climate for the bounty.
Rutherglen has the same number of sunshine hours as the Gold
Coast. And, mercifully, fewer drunk teenagers in hotpants and lewd t-shirts.
Sunshine and temperate weather allows many grape varieties to develop full and
complex flavours. Muscat
and Tokay grapes achieve high levels of sweetness and spice. Reds such as Shiraz and the lesser
known Durif develop the kind of firm natural tannin structures that lovers of
big reds crave.
Durif is one of the area’s quiet stars. The vine is now
virtually nonexistent in France,
and almost exclusive to North East Victoria. Its lack
of popularity may be due to the patience required to enjoy it. Drink this wine
young and you’ll most likely find it overpowering and brash. Cellar it for 10
to 20 years and you’ll think tears from Bacchus himself have fallen into your
glass.
A great Durif stand ups extremely
well against a bold Shiraz
in the noble tannin stakes. Deeply coloured, firm and flavourful with a long
finish, Durif is a big, big wine that wants to be shared with a perfectly
cooked steak or ably prepared game. Freshly killed, perhaps, by a brawny,
sun-kissed farm boy built just like a shearing shed…
Durif isn’t the only stranger in
town. The entire region lends itself to the production of other less well known
grape varietals like Marsanne, Viognier, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo, and Touriga.
Many of the winemaking houses of the Rutherglen region
sprang up in the gold rush days of the mid-19th century, and are still owned
and run by the fourth, fifth and even sixth generations of the original owners.
The connections to the region’s heritage are strong.
At All Saints Estate they still use old, open fermenters and
a basket press from 1873. Set in a 120 year old castle, All Saints Estate
Cellar Door is a somewhat magical place for a spot of wine tasting. The onsite Provender-style
cheese tasting room serves up a range of gourmet cheeses, antipasto and local
produce. A slow graze on fine foodstuffs just serves to make good wine even
better.
Visitors to the Rutherglen Wine Experience and Visitor
Information Centre can hire bikes and pick up maps to explore five cycle routes;
a unique way to visit the area’s wineries. If you enjoy fortifieds, the Wine
Centre also marks the start of the Muscat Trail, a tour around the great Muscat houses of
Rutherglen.
Autumn is a great time to visit this hot and dry region of
the state, and if you pick your weekend well, you can shop like a champion.
The second Sunday of every month welcomes the Rutherglen
Farmers Market. More than twenty regional producers vend an extensive range of
fresh local produce. Fruit and vegetables, olive oils and olives, Rutherglen
lamb, North East venison, local honeys, free range eggs, cheeses, relishes and
pickles inspire a spontaneous picnic on the Murray with a big red. Pack a tent or stay in
town.
Rutherglen, like its beloved Durif, deserves time.
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